SPYHUNTER2K (SETH C) PILOT REPLICA BODY KIT

Are you currently building or interested in building a replica bike? Post your info and progress here.
spyhunter2k
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Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:53 pm

Re: SPYHUNTER'S PILOT REPLICA-IN-THE-MAKING

Post by spyhunter2k » Thu Oct 04, 2018 10:29 pm

jesse1 wrote:Will the bottom tray be already mounted to nose? epoxied and glassed in? Or will it screw in?
Yep it will be epoxied in already.

jesse1
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Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 5:03 pm

Re: SPYHUNTER'S PILOT REPLICA-IN-THE-MAKING

Post by jesse1 » Thu Oct 04, 2018 10:42 pm

One of the biggest mistakes made by the designers on the proto and series bikes are the metal twist tabs that mount into the fiberglass mounting holes ended up elongating, cracking, and getting pulled out of the glass holes. There is no support. my recommendation is to add a drilled metal plate on back side glassed into the nose. :o

I wonder if there is a way to make a screw on bracket piece instead of having to weld a piece to the frame for mounting? Some kind of clamping system....... :idea:

Have you figured out the headlight, laser assembly, and motorization?
The ones on the series bikes were air solenoids driven. Not practical. Only for props. Maybe an RC Robot servo.

That's why you only see it pop up during the intro and not down. It just falls down when air is turned off. But it just flops around a bit.

spyhunter2k
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Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:53 pm

Re: SPYHUNTER'S PILOT REPLICA-IN-THE-MAKING

Post by spyhunter2k » Fri Oct 05, 2018 3:17 pm

jesse1 wrote:One of the biggest mistakes made by the designers on the proto and series bikes are the metal twist tabs that mount into the fiberglass mounting holes ended up elongating, cracking, and getting pulled out of the glass holes. There is no support. my recommendation is to add a drilled metal plate on back side glassed into the nose. :o

I wonder if there is a way to make a screw on bracket piece instead of having to weld a piece to the frame for mounting? Some kind of clamping system....... :idea:

Have you figured out the headlight, laser assembly, and motorization?
The ones on the series bikes were air solenoids driven. Not practical. Only for props. Maybe an RC Robot servo.

That's why you only see it pop up during the intro and not down. It just falls down when air is turned off. But it just flops around a bit.
Most of the attachments will bolt on to my bike. Not much welding.That said, I don't know exactly how I''ll mount my nose yet. I'm thinking an arm that bolts onto the lower triple clamp angled upwards and then which spreads into a "Y" shape so that both ends of the Y rest near/up-against the inner sides of the upper nose on either side of the particle beam assembly. Will have to do some trial and error.

The doors will likely open by motorized linear actuators that push a short arm attached by pivot to a longer arm so that a short actuator travel will result in a longer/faster movement of the target part. Otherwise, everything will open super slowly.

jesse1
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 5:03 pm

Re: SPYHUNTER'S PILOT REPLICA-IN-THE-MAKING

Post by jesse1 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 7:55 pm

If you look at the proto bike picture where the bike is not finished: the back side of the nose piece has 2 dowels that pass thru a metal bracket. I don't know how the front is attached. Never saw/remember that part of the proto bike.

The series bikes had 4 mounts that were welded to the frame. The front stem had a steel flat piece welded protruding forward which mounted to the inside upper laser door flange at center position. Some of my pictures reflect that. On the second mount, a Y shaped flange went to each side of the nose piece of the bike. You can see on some of my pictures on this site where the side nose screws are located. Then there is one flat bent plate mounted on the rear position of the nose piece in the center welded to the back bone.

None of the series bikes had a working laser door. The doors were held in by Velco or no door at all.
That's were the 12 volt batteries were in the nose. Here's a picture of the front nose bracket mounted to the the laser door.
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jesse1
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 5:03 pm

Re: SPYHUNTER'S PILOT REPLICA-IN-THE-MAKING

Post by jesse1 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 9:45 pm

Here's another picture. A Streethawk bike in a blinding winter storm :lol:

jesse1
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Re: SPYHUNTER'S PILOT REPLICA-IN-THE-MAKING

Post by jesse1 » Fri Oct 05, 2018 10:40 pm

Does anyone know the name of these twist in metal lock down pins?
The receptacle has 2 holes so you can rivet the unit onto some type of frame. The receptacle has a hole in the center and you have to push down and twist the pin to stay locked-in to place...... The male pin has a slot in the head.

spyhunter2k
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Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:53 pm

Re: SPYHUNTER'S PILOT REPLICA-IN-THE-MAKING

Post by spyhunter2k » Sat Oct 06, 2018 10:15 pm

jesse1 wrote:Does anyone know the name of these twist in metal lock down pins?
The receptacle has 2 holes so you can rivet the unit onto some type of frame. The receptacle has a hole in the center and you have to push down and twist the pin to stay locked-in to place...... The male pin has a slot in the head.
You're describing Dzus quarter-turn lock fasteners. The flat heads with a single slot do match the look of the screws on the screen-used bikes. Are these what you're saying you saw on the screen-used bikes?

Yeah, like you mentioned above it would be nice to bolt on mounting tabs to the bike frame instead of welding.

Using screws to mount the panels, you'd just need to use a small metal washer on both sides stacked with a rubber washer. If the Dzus fasteners are actually what we're used on the real bikes I'd like to use them, but since I think they actually bear some of the weight of the panel you'd need to epoxy a bracket to the back of each panel at each mounting hole to keep them from stripping out.

jesse1
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 5:03 pm

Re: SPYHUNTER'S PILOT REPLICA-IN-THE-MAKING

Post by jesse1 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 10:28 pm

Yes, those are slotted and correct except the heads aren't flat, they have a slight dome shape on head.
Yes all the series bikes had it! Yes I found them on ebay. Some bikes had them painted the midnight blue and others had left them just the natural metal color. Although/However, If you look at the proto bike, they are flat heads especially on the air foil.
Last edited by jesse1 on Sat Oct 06, 2018 11:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

jesse1
Posts: 110
Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 5:03 pm

Re: SPYHUNTER'S PILOT REPLICA-IN-THE-MAKING

Post by jesse1 » Sat Oct 06, 2018 10:46 pm

Any luck with the windshield?

spyhunter2k
Posts: 622
Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:53 pm

Re: SPYHUNTER'S PILOT REPLICA-IN-THE-MAKING

Post by spyhunter2k » Sat Oct 06, 2018 11:27 pm

jesse1 wrote:Yes, those are slotted and correct except the heads aren't flat, they have a slight dome shape on head.
Yes all bikes had it! Yes I found them on ebay. Some bikes had them painted the midnight blue and others had left them just the natural metal color.
Thinking it over, the ONE reason you'd use Dzus fasteners is the speed with which they allow a panel to be removed or installed, either because you need to service something behind the panel very often or anticipate frequent damage to the area necessitating a complete swap-out of the panel. For the screen-used bikes, it was probably the anticipated damage.

For a replica, though, the panels wont need to be repeatedly swapped out, and the tendency for Dzus fasteners to strip out is a definite concern. So it may be better to use a fastener that closely replicates the look of Dzus fasteners, like these contour truss head (a type of shallow rounded head) screws: https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-rounded-head-screws

Plus, the fastener heads are three different sizes on the screen-used bikes, and these screws are available in all three of the necessary sizes.

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